Pipette dropping active ingredient into glass beeker

THE ART AND SCIENCE OF CREATING COSMETIC PRODUCTS

Published April 30, 2023

Cosmetic formulation is a complex combination of art and science that requires a deep understanding of the skin’s structure and mechanics. It involves creating a precise blend of raw materials to achieve the right balance between effectiveness of the active ingredients and sensorial experience of applying it to your skin. The process takes time, patience, and expertise to perfect. In this article, we will explore the art and science behind creating a cosmetic product.

RESEARCH AND DEVELOPMENT 

Before a cosmetic product can be made, extensive research and development are conducted. This stage involves determining what the product’s purpose is, who the target audience is, and what kind of formula will be most effective. Formulators work together to create a concept that is both innovative and appealing to the intended audience. They analyze the properties of each ingredient to determine the best combination to achieve formulation goals.

INGREDIENT SELECTION AND DOSING 

Once the concept is agreed upon, the next step is to identify the ingredients that will be used in the formula. These ingredients are carefully selected based on their intended function, effectiveness, safety, and stability. The formulators must determine the precise amount of each ingredient to be used in the formula. The dosing of ingredients is a critical step in the formulation process. Each ingredient must be used in the right amount to ensure that the formula is safe, effective, and feels good on the skin. Each ingredient has a role to play in the formula:

  • Active ingredients (hyaluronic acid, peptides, plant extracts, etc.): these ingredients act on the skin to provide it with benefits. They are the key to the product's effectiveness.

  • Hydrating agents (water, glycerin, etc.) and emollients (plant oils): they help to carry the active ingredients into the skin and provide hydration and nutrition.

  • Texture agents: they are used to stabilize the formula. Most creams are made from a blend of two phases - a water and an oil phase - which is called an emulsion. Emulsifiers help to stabilize this mixture. Texture agents also help to change the appearance and feel of a formula to maximize its sensorial appeal - they can thicken, provide lightness, turn it into a gel, deliver a soft finish, etc.

  • Preservatives: they protect the formula by preventing the growth of microorganisms (bacteria, yeast, fungi, etc.).

  • pH adjusters: they adjust the pH of formula so that it is balanced with the skin's pH. They also help to stabilize the formulas and maintain the effectiveness of active ingredients.

  • Sensorial agents like fragrances help to enhance the product's sensorial qualities to maximize pleasure when applying.

FILORGA carefully selects its ingredients in accordance with the European Union Cosmetics Regulation No 1223/2009. We closely monitor developments in scientific knowledge on various ingredients as well as regulatory news. 

TESTING AND EVALUATION

The safety of FILORGA products is assessed throughout their life cycle, from the ingredient selection stage until they are used by consumers. All our formulas undergo expert safety assessments and are then clinically tested by independent laboratories, under dermatological control, to guarantee both tolerance and effectiveness to our consumers.

To support our efforts, FILORGA has a scientific committee of world-renowned scientific and medical experts, who help us to improve our knowledge of aesthetic medicine and provide their expertise during the development and testing of our products. 

PRODUCTION AND MANUFACTURING

Once the formula has been approved, it can be produced in manufacturing facilities. The ingredients are carefully mixed according to the recipe, and the final product is packaged and labeled. The production process is strictly controlled and regulated to ensure that each product meets the highest safety and quality standards. Each batch is tested again to confirm that it is free from contamination and meets the established criteria.

FILORGA is a French brand, and almost all of our products are made in France. Some of the technologies that we use mean that we have to manufacture certain products in other European countries (e.g. Spain and Belgium). 

IN SUMMARY 

Creating a cosmetic product is a complex process that requires a deep understanding of chemistry, skin biology, and formulation. The art and science of formulating must balance the product’s effectiveness with its texture, aroma, safety, and packaging. This process can take months, if not years to perfect. However, the result is a well-crafted product that meets the highest safety and quality standards. Skincare products are essential to our daily routine, and the hard work that formulators put into crafting them should be recognized and appreciated. Next time you reach for your favorite skincare product, take a moment to appreciate the art and science that went into creating it.